Thursday, June 18, 2009

Bawarchi’s timeless delicacies!

KATHMANDU: Sanjay Nangia and his wife Rena Nangia own Bawarchi, Sanjay said, “Seeing what’s happening in India I realise that home deliveries are an expanding niche market and Indian food is getting hugely popular as Nepal and India come closer”.
Sanjay Nangia, my friend whose Bawarchi in Maharajgunj opposite the Teaching Hospital has a clientele of senior doctors and heads of medical departments at lunch time and a database of free home delivery food comprising 50-60 families at dinner.
New Bawarchis are going to be springing up so Sanjay is increasingly busy and his wife looks after the children at home as well as the Bawarchi in Maharajgunj.
Sanjay recommended the specialty of the house, an old Kolkata favourite The Kathi Roll and he said, “The best combination is the egg and chicken combination because the egg moistens the paratha or bread that then makes a delicious envelope for the marinated chicken”. So we had one.
However distant my own Kolkata days The Kathi Rolls were as soft as succulent and as mildly spiced as I remember them. I tasted my youth. Both the roll and that past of mine were mesmerising. It is said that the Kathi Roll was the result of some quick thinking on a busy day, when the number of customers purchasing kebab and parathas outstripped the rate at which plates could be washed, so the chef decided to wrap some of the kebabs in parathas rather than serve them on plates. The basic Kathi Roll begins with paratha toasted on a tava or pan. Whipped egg is poured in the tava’s centre and topped with the bread. Fried vegetables or marinated meat are roasted in butter and stuffed inside. Spices, red onion slivers and lime are sprinkled on top.
We avoided the chicken, mutton, fish and paneer platter called the Kebabi Kebabs despite our remembering it as brilliant the first time we had it and moved into Sanjay’s suggestion of the mutton Seekh Kebab one of my favourites.
Created by the Mughals in Delhi its basically minced meat and almost tandoori spices cooked in a tandoor clay oven. Bawarchi’s Seekh Kebabs have an enviable juiciness which the mint sauce adds too with its mingled tastes. You don’t get Seekh Kebabs as good as Bawarchi’s anymore.
Said Sanjay, “Now try the Hyderabadi Biryani which is different from other Biryanis in India because it is moist whereas you eat the others with a yoghurt and onions and chilli mixture”. The Hyderabadi Biryani we were eating could be devoured in great quantities without anything it was wondrously delicate with a hint of saffron and the mutton was as tender as a touch: the potatoes are an essential part of the dish and there was a little gravy which was unique. It was beyond yumptious.
The Chicken Dopiyaza which accompanied the Hyderabadi Biryani was made different by the taste of capsicum. The soft tasting reduced gravy of Bawarchi’s Chicken Dopiyaza goes back to its Muslim creator Tipu Sultan and is typically a dish from Bengal. Food writer Camellia Panjabi says of Dopiyazas, “The term describes a dish using twice the normal proportion of onions or in which onions are used twice in the cooking process.”

No comments:

Post a Comment